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Travel Guide - Santa Fe

Author: Cathy Barber
Issue: July, 2017, Page 21
Classic eats and classic architecture are on the menu at The Pink Adobe.
For a postcard-perfect getaway this summer, look no further than the country’s oldest capital city: Santa Fe, New Mexico

As hot summer temperatures descend on the Valley of the Sun, Phoenicians look to escape to hospitable locales—and no destination is cooler both in weather and culture than nearby Santa Fe, New Mexico. With its stunning natural surroundings, iconic pueblo architecture and burgeoning and ever-eclectic art scene, The City Different seduces with its beauty and captivates with a history that’s rich in spirituality and Native American culture. Whether your tastes run toward outdoor adventure, high-end shopping or simply relaxing and enjoying a green chili cheeseburger and prickly pear margarita, there’s sure to be something here to fit every interest and budget. Join us as we take you on a whirlwind tour through the best of this ethereal, laid-back, artsy—and uniquely Southwest—retreat.


The City Delicious

When most people think Santa Fe, they think chili. But the city’s dining scene has long since moved beyond “red or green.” Farm-to-table spots take advantage of the state’s bountiful market basket. Lamb is
big here, and menus are loaded with New Mexico produce and local cheeses.
 
With more than 200 eateries within the city limits, there’s something here for every taste. You can spend a long weekend near the Plaza and dine well without ever needing a car—summon Santa Fe Pedicabs if pre-meal shopping gets the best of you—or explore the myriad eclectic neighborhoods for hidden gems. Many restaurants with outdoor seating even welcome well-behaved pooches; it’s a good idea to call ahead.

For regional fare with a fresh twist, try these eateries:
1 Chef Noela Figueroa’s creative stamp is all over Bodega Prime. Fortify yourself with a brunch of pork cheek breakfast poutine with russet potatoes, halloumi cheese curds and fried eggs. Bonus: You can shop here for stylish homegoods. Breakfast, brunch and lunch only. 
2 Chef Rocky Durham rules the kitchen at Blue Heron Restaurant at Sunrise Springs Spa Resort, about a half-hour south of town. It’s worth the drive for the likes of duck confit posole. Lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.
3 Wear your new duds for dinner at Anasazi Restaurant at Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi, where Chef Edgar Beas works elegant magic with regional ingredients. 
4 Tired of margaritas? Radish & Rye’s menu looks to the South, with pages of bourbon to sip on the side. Dinner only. 

Looking for tried and true? These won’t disappoint:

Cafe Pasqual’s, a block off the Plaza, is always worth the wait. Take an afternoon pie break at Plaza Café. Get your red chili—and your margarita—fix at The Shed; they take reservations for dinner. The margarita list at Maria’s New Mexican Kitchen runs to eight pages. Feeling rowdy? Head to Harry’s Roadhouse, where diner food on steroids will revive you after a day—or three—of shopping.

Turquoise jewelry, like this necklace ($950), is a must-have souvenir. (santafedouble-take.com)
TOP SHOPS

Santa Fe feeds a shopper’s addiction with blocks lined with stores and galleries, plus summer markets that are here, then gone, in a weekend. Jed Foutz, a fifth-generation trader and owner of Shiprock Santa Fe, credits the city’s reputation as a primo shopping mecca to the same things that have drawn artists to Santa Fe for centuries: the culture and the land. Tribal art—not just Native American but from around the world—finds a sublime setting inside the city’s adobe walls.

Plus, many Santa Feans have  two (or more) homes, so shopping here goes beyond souvenirs and small accessories. The array of distinctive and artistic homegoods is unparalleled.

Here is a handful of not-to-be-missed stores:

Stepping into Seret and Sons (seretandsons.org) is like sliding into the lush embrace of a thousand rugs. They’re everywhere—dhurries, kilims, kazaks and more—with brilliant colors that catch the eye. Seret even uses rugs as upholstery. You’ll find vintage wooden furniture in one room, and out back there’s a warren of architectural salvage that will inspire thoughts of remodeling.

Mediterrania (mediterraniaantiques.com) crafts a visual buffet with pieces from Spain, Portugal, France and Italy, even Mexico. This is not a look for the timid. Ornate mirrors reflect tables full of pottery old and new. Stately candlesticks and tooled leather document boxes sit atop antique cabinets and chests. It all meshes seamlessly.

Clear your mind with an appointment at Shiprock Santa Fe (shiprocksantafe.com), overlooking the Plaza. To be clear: This is a gallery, not a store. You’ll discover that vintage Native American pottery and graphic Navajo rugs have been waiting to find their ideal counterpoint in midcentury Modern furniture. Really.

And more: Asian Adobe (asianadobe.com) for another unexpected-but-oh-so-right touch. Detours at La Fonda (lafondasantafe.com), offering everything from clothing to decor, is much more than a hotel gift shop. Throw a little French into the mix at Bon Marche (bonmarcheonline.com).

Photos - From left: Sterling silver napkin rings from James Reid Ltd. ($3,000/six) can be personalized with your monogram or brand. (jrltd.com)

Find pottery by artist Mike Walsh (goblet, $44) at Gift N’ Gourmet. (thingsofsantafe.com)


Photo by Wendy Mceahern

Select contemporary pillows or a Navajo Third Phase chief’s blanket, circa 1890 ($20,000), from Malouf on the Plaza. (maloufontheplaza.com)
Fun at the Flea
Flea market fans panicked when the Tesuque Flea Market  announced it would not reopen this year. Good news: Many vendors are now at the new Santa Fe Flea Market at Buffalo Thunder. Head north on Highway 285 and take exit 177. Make a U-turn over the highway; the market is on the west side. Open Friday through Sunday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. thesantafefleamarket.net.


SPOTLIGHT: SANTA FE RAILYARD

“Tourists want to be in the heart of the community,” says Santa Fe artist Matthew Chase-Daniel. We agree! To experience the city like a local, get to the Santa Fe Railyard.
 You never know what you’ll encounter in this eclectic neighborhood located about one mile southwest of the Plaza, the town’s historic central square and main tourism destination.

The Railyard has “kind of a different feel,” says Christy Downs, executive director of the Railyard Park Conservancy, a nonprofit that handles educational and volunteer programming and tends the outdoor spaces in the city-owned park.

That includes outdoor art, everything from sculpture to dance. The goal: “interesting, temporary art, all year-round,” notes Downs. The Conservancy hosts free landscape tours, hands-on training about native plants and even seminars on native bees. Contrast this with the crisp, current home of LewAllen Galleries, where collectors scrutinize contemporary and modern art. Facing Guadalupe Street are more galleries and a row of design stores.

This diversity gives the Railyard a democratic vibe. Chase-Daniel, who also co-founded Axle Contemporary mobile gallery, says that “Santa Fe’s old adobe houses have a lot of charm, but they also have a lot of limitations. A wider array of projects can happen” at the Railyard.

Photo courtesy Tourism Santa Fe
Five Railyard Park facts:
 
1 You could live here. There are live/work spaces—and stores to furnish both. Coffee spots are everywhere. There’s a fitness studio and a brewery, galleries and a church. On the weekend, give in to temptation at local artist markets. Find dance, live music and even outdoor movies.

2 Shop the Santa Fe Farmers Market, even if you’re not here to cook. The Saturday morning market is a year-round occurence. Buy some flowers, dried Northern New Mexico apples, handmade soap or hand-spun yarn.

3 This is the place to go for contemporary art. Not the only place, mind you, but Chase-Daniel says a lot of the city’s contemporary galleries have clustered here in recent years. The big dog is SITE Santa Fe, a contemporary art space with international cachet. SITE is currently closed for renovation and expansion, but it is expected to reopen in fall 2017. Keep updated at sitesantafe.org.

4 There’s lots of parking. Stay cool in the underground garage, or grab one of 500 surface spots.

5 Feet tired? Rent a bike from Eco Motive Electric Bike Shop, from $30 for a half-day.


Art on Wheels

Axle Contemporary started as a mobile art gallery—think of a food truck but with art—in 2010. Since then, it’s expanded to include performance art, social engagement art and even Axle Contemporary Press.

But it’s that shiny aluminum stepvan that gets people’s attention. “Because we’re small and we’re on a street or in a parking lot, it’s very easy for people to get a sense of what’s going on,” says co-founder Matthew Chase-Daniel. He notes that Axle has taken contemporary art to people around Santa Fe and across the state who may otherwise not have access to it. 

Axle can be found in the Santa Fe Railyard some days; Chase-Daniel says it’s a good fit because there’s a lot of foot traffic there. And, “People who are interested in local food are also interested in local art, we’ve found.” Follow the truck’s schedule at axleart.com.


For a silver belt buckle, such as this one by Walt Doran ($1,095), stop by Tom Taylor. (tomtaylorbuckles.com)
Local Love

With so many things to see and do in Santa Fe, travelers can often become overwhelmed. That’s why we asked the locals featured in this issue to reveal their favorite spots.

When it comes to dining, local resident Heather Weir prefers the casual atmospheres and great foods found at Tune-Up Cafe and Fire & Hops. “El Nido is fun if you want someplace that’s really fancy,” she adds.

Painter Del Curfman finds inspiration in the many galleries on Canyon Road, especially Giacobbe Fritz, while the homeowners featured on Pages 46-59 recommend Nedra Matteucci Galleries on Paseo de Peralta for works from the Taos Society to contemporary artists. “The sculpture garden at Matteucci is a Santa Fe classic,” notes the wife.

Interior designer Susan Hersker enjoys browsing for Spanish and Italian antiques at Mediterrania, and after a long day of shopping for rugs at Arrediamo, design duo Michael Violante and Paul Rochford unwind with fine dining at Geronimo or The Compound.

Looking for something to do on Tuesday or Saturday mornings before the shops open? Take a page from photographer Wendy McEahern’s book and stop by the Santa Fe Farmers Market. “I love being able to purchase locally grown organic food directly from the people who grow it,” she says. “It’s a wonderful start to my weekends.”

For more tips, visit the official site of Santa Fe, santafe.org.


SuPERB STAYS

When it comes to accommodations, The City Different offers just that—something different for every type of traveler. Santa Fe’s top hotels all have distinct personalities, from historic resorts to casual inns—even a dude ranch. Can’t decide? Try one of these suggestions:

City Resort: Located on six acres just a few blocks away from the Plaza and Canyon Road, La Posada de Santa Fe (left) makes it easy to forget that you’re downtown. Built in 1882, the classic adobe casitas are adorned in Southwest decor. Bonus: The resort features an extensive collection of local art throughout its public spaces—and all of it is for sale.

History Reborn: The former St. Vincent Hospital has been renovated into the LEED-certified Drury Plaza Hotel, which sits on the edge of downtown’s Cathedral Park. Spacious rooms and a pet-friendly approach make this the perfect spot for business or pleasure travel.

Plaza Perfect: The Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi has one of the best locations in town, just steps off the Plaza and kitty-corner from the Palace of the Governors. This intimate boutique—with only 58 rooms—pays homage to the area’s Anasazi tribe while catering to guests who crave contemporary Southwest chic design.

Luxe Escape: You can’t go wrong when you choose to stay at a Four Seasons resort. Rancho Encantado, tucked away on 57 acres about 20 minutes north of downtown, offers everything for the vacationer who wants to unwind in pure comfort. With horseback riding, spa treatments and Four-Diamond dining, the hardest part about staying here is never wanting to leave.

Getting There
For years, Santa Fe has been a long-weekend destination for Phoenicians thanks to its nearby proximity and easy access—a short flight to Albuquerque followed by an hour-long drive, or a 7-hour direct drive. But now, Valley residents looking to escape the heat can enjoy the cool mountain air even more quickly. In December, American Airlines opened up nonstop flights from Sky Harbor International Airport to Santa Fe Municipal Airport. The 1 hour, 22 minute flight departs daily from Phoenix at 12:10 p.m. and leaves Santa Fe at 3:05 p.m.


Modern Muse

Whether you’re packing for a Santa Fe getaway or looking to restock your wardrobe once you get there, take a sartorial cue from the city’s most iconic former resident, artist Georgia O’Keeffe. The famed painter not only pioneered the place of women in Modern art, but she also challenged the traditional dress code and exemplified original self-expression through fashion. New Mexico’s dramatic landscape and cultural aesthetic further inspired her personal and creative style. You can capture the tailored, elegant essence of O’Keeffe’s legacy from head to toe. Here’s how:

The hat
To ward off the desert sun during her en plein air painting sessions, the artist donned a well-worn black Parson’s hat. Visit one of the many custom milliners around Santa Fe, such as Montecristi or O’Farrell, and instead of a classic Western cattleman hat, opt for a sleeker vaquero- or gaucho-style that boasts a flat brim and a telescope crown to replicate O’Keeffe’s laid- back look.

Top off your outfit with the handcrafted ‘Georgia O’ hat ($1,000) adorned with a vintage turquoise and silver hatband ($3,500). (montecristihats.com)
 

Layer a black peplum cardigan ($189) and a printed sheath dress ($110) to convey O’Keeffe’s casual but calculated style (peruvianconnection.com)
The outfit
When she moved from New York to New Mexico in 1949, O’Keeffe’s city-wise wardrobe of sensible white blouses, long skirts, Japanese kimonos and two-piece suits made from the finest textiles came with her. However, her minimalist sensibility couldn’t resist influence from her adopted home, and she began incorporating blue jeans and warm colors into her uniform. Evoke her sophisticated spirit with sweeping broomstick skirts and lightweight dresses from Passamentrie and artful button-up blouses from Daniella. Top off your ensemble with a velvet jacket dotted with silver concho buttons or a classic cardigan from Peruvian Connection.

The accessories
Though not one for over-the-top embellishment, O’Keeffe knew how to expertly punctuate her monochromatic silhouettes with choice details. A spiral brooch made by fellow artist Alexander Calder regularly decorated her collar or lapel, and she often cinched her billowing kimonos with a statement belt ornamented with metal X’s. On occasion, she would wear a single silver cuff on her wrist or a silk scarf tied around her head. While she certainly pulled off this no-frills look, Santa Fe is home to too many fabulous boutiques for today’s visitor to go completely unadorned. Stop by vintage shop Nathalie or jeweler Rocki Gorman to find a treasure trove of turquoise, coral, copper and silver jewelry, leather goods and accessories that will add an artistic touch to your outfit.


The Pikolinos leather espadrilles in Brandy will keep your feet chic and comfortable. $175 (streetfeetsantafe.com)




The shoes
An avid walker, O’Keeffe chose footwear that could transition without issue from the uneven cobblestone streets that surround the central Plaza to the sandy desert outside her Chama River Valley home. Suede ballet flats were a common staple of her daily dress, but she also favored espadrilles, leather loafers and canvas sneakers. Follow in her footsteps and leave your towering stilettos at home. Visit Back at the Ranch for a pair of bespoke cowboy boots inlaid with colorful floral motifs in homage to O’Keeffe’s most famous paintings, or peruse Street Feet for woven sandals and comfortable flats with a Southwestern flair. — Carly Scholl

Photo by INSIGHT FOTO

Open-air seating at the Santa Fe Opera
July Calendar

Santa Fe Opera
Through Aug. 26
Santa Fe Opera outdoor amphitheater, santafeopera.org, (800) 280-4654. Enjoy world-class opera in a magnificent al fresco setting.

Santa Fe Wine Festival
July 1-2
Noon-6 p.m., El Rancho de las Golondrinas, golondrinas.org, (505) 471-2261. Sample and buy handmade wines directly from the
local vintners.

Santa Fe bandstand
July 5-August 25
Historic Downtown Plaza, santafebandstand.org. Seventy-five outdoor performances are scheduled, from
jazz to mariachi to blues and rock.

Art Santa Fe
July 13-16
Santa Fe Community Convention Center, artsantafe.com. Top galleries, art publishers and established studio artists from across the globe join together for this celebration of contemporary and modern art.

Santa Fe International Folk Art Market
July 14-16
Museum Hill, folkartalliance.org, (505) 992-7600. The largest international folk art market of its kind, this event connects world cultures as more than 160 artists from 53 countries showcase their works. Food and music add to the festivities.

Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival
July 16-Aug. 21
Various Santa Fe locations, santafechambermusic.org, (888) 221-9836. Join renowned musicians and emerging young artists for more than 80 concerts, recitals and open rehearsals.

Behind Adobe Walls
July 18 and 25
12:10-4:45 p.m., thesantafegardenclub.org, (800) 283-0122. Santa Fe Garden Club hosts this guided tour of historical houses, private collections and unique gardens.

“Viva Mexico!”
July 22-23
10 a.m.4 p.m., El Rancho de las Golondrinas, golondrinas.org, (505) 471-2261. Celebrate the music, culture, food and art of our neighbors to the south.

Contemporary Hispanic Market
July 29-30
8 a.m.-5 p.m., Lincoln Avenue adjacent to Santa Fe Plaza, contemporaryhispanicmarketinc.com, (505) 332-5162. More than 130 artists share arts and crafts.

Traditional Spanish Market
July 29-30
8 a.m.-5 p.m., Santa Fe Plaza, spanishcolonial.org, (505) 982-2226. Authentic artistic traditions by more than 250 Spanish colonial artists are in the spotlight.
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