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in a jam
In a Jam
April, 2009, Page 74
Photo by David B. Moore
In a blind taste test, the
Phoenix Home & Garden
editorial team sampled six types of marmalade.
Here are the findings.
AMES KEILLER & SON DUNDEE
Most tasters thought a bitter taste dominated the flavor of this marmalade. It was described as having a thick, jellylike consistency.
This brand received high marks for its chunks of rind and sweet-yet-tart flavor. Some liked its citrusy aroma.
Several panelists noted a watery consistency and short-lived aftertaste as the most noticeable qualities of this option.
The small pieces of rind in this marmalade were considered a plus; and some thought it was one of the sweetest in the bunch.
The balanced flavor and citrus tang in this entry made it the panelists’ favorite. One taster said it smelled and tasted like a fresh-peeled orange.
While tasters said this option was smooth and spreadable, they objected to its small strips of rind and strong, bitter aftertaste.
Food Styling by Executive Chef M. Allan Schanbacher
A WORD FROM CHEF ALLAN
Marmalade has a storied history that many believe began when a Portuguese preserve made from quince fruit and sugar called
was given to British king Henry VIII. Over time, the jamlike substance gained in popularity, and it is said that the first commercial citrus marmalade was created by Janet Keiller from bitter Seville oranges in the town of Dundee, Scotland, in the 1700s.
Many Arizonans enjoy a surplus of citrus in late winter and spring, when trees produce fruit in abundance. Chef Allan suggests experimenting with one of the many marmalade recipes available on the Internet as a way to use extra fruit. In addition to orange, try making grapefruit, lemon, lime or lemon/orange marmalades.
Consider using marmalade as a filling in thumbprint cookies or a chocolate layer cake. For a more savory flavor, make marmalade-based glazes for meats. For Chef Allan’s homemade recipe for Orange-Dijon Glaze, log on to phgmag.com/food/recipe or
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